Every town has a "fou" or two or, for
the more politically correct among us, the "uninstitutionalized
mentally disturbed". There's the Finger Fou of Labe,
who will helpfully show you his extremely enlarged
index finger and ask you for money. There's the rarely-sighted
Naked Lady Fou of Kankan, who will smile and greet
you pleasantly. I had the fortune to be the very first
to sight and classify the Rolling Fou of Siguiri,
who gleefully rolled on the ground in front of each
market stall, and laughing, ran on to the next. She
caused an equal amount of mirth in passers-by. That's
the kind of fou I like. Not like the Goggle Glasses
fou of Fria who, wearing dark shop glasses, will follow
you silently for a good long time, until you realize
with a start that he's standing right behind you,
staring. Or the fou that recently came to our health
center.
Our fou is big, tall, strong. Apparently
he was fine until his grandmother died and, in his
grief, he drank some potion he found in her room.
Since then, he's stabbed his father and brother, caused
all sorts of trouble, and escaped from the jail by
lifting up the roof. So, when he came to the health
center and ran from door to door, "Who locked this
door without informing me? Where's the key? Who locked
this door?", our female pharmacist, Bama, alone except
for some women and babies, sat silent and didn't move.
A man had just come in, "I'm sick,
I need medicine", but as soon as the fou started
rattling doors, the "sick" man fled like the wind,
leaving all the women alone. When Bama told us this
story, she tapped her head to indicate to the patient
that the man was a fou, and the sick man's
eyes widened, and she pantomimed the sick man (suddenly
cured) dashing for the door, eyes a-goggle, checking
over his shoulder as he ran. My host mother, Adama,
collapsed into fits of giggles, doubling over and
dabbing at her eyes. Bama repeated her performance,
provoking a completely helpless fit from Adama.
I was amazed. I'd never seen someone
laugh, really laugh, here! We joke and giggle, but
rarely does something really strike everyone funny.
I started to laugh at Adama laughing, and life was
fine.
The same day, however, that fou
came to visit me, kindly enough. I was in my house
with my friend Mamadou
and there was a knock. I went to look, and didn't
know who it was, but I knew there was something not
right.
"Mamadou, c'est qui?" I asked my friend, "Who is it?".
"Mamadou, c'est qui?" repeated the fou.
"Mamadou, c'est qui?" I asked again, sharp and worried.
"Mamadou, c'est qui?" added the fou.
"So, it's a fou?", I asked Mamadou.
"Yes, sit down, he'll go away." Mamadou wasn't even
looking up.
I sat down, uncomfortable. The fou
had his head sticking in the door, and was looking
all over my rich American house, repeating once in
a while, "Mamadou, c'est qui?". Eventually he left.
He came back later that night, coming all the way
into my house and sitting down. I pretended I didn't
understand Pulaar, and called Bama over to the house.
She sat and talked to him, thank God for Bama, while
I pretended to work. He kept intently tapping a spot
on his left wrist with his finger. He gave me a piece
of wood and patted his chest. He wanted me to keep
it by my heart, because he liked me. I pretended I
didn't understand. He took it with him when he left.
Though I was scared at the time, and
kept my door closed for several days, I also felt
sorry for him. He was trying to communicate, to connect,
but his illness makes him dangerous, and everybody
steers clear. "Never talk to a fou", they all
say. You never know when he'll be angry. And I'm no
different. I'm not going to make a difference in the
life of this man who gave me the gift of a piece of
wood, and then tapped at his wrist. Since, I've hidden
in a tailor shop to avoid him, and heard him tell
my health center chef that I'm his wife. I hide in
my whiteness, playing the stereotype of the dumb Porto
who doesn't understand Pulaar and doesn't remember
anyone's faces. I pretend not to know him, and that's
sad.
They've brought more police complaints
against him, and told his father he was bothering
the white woman. Mamadou said they were going to "attach"
him chain him to a stake in the ground with manacles
around his ankles. I was horrified. "But that's terrible!
That's treating him like an animal!" I said. "He's
no longer a man", said Mamadou.
I bristled. All over the world, people
have no respect for difference. It has to be more
or less, it can't just be different. Knowing how Europeans
treated their lunatics in the earlier centuries, I'm
not unfamiliar with this distasteful idea.
"He's still a man", I said. "He's always
a man. Be careful of what you say. We Americans kept
black slaves because we thought black people were
not men, but animals. We were wrong. Be careful when
you say that somebody is not a man."
"Oui", said Mamadou, and fell silent.
He never says anything when I bring up slavery. Perhaps
because he thinks of our difference, impossible to
forget. Perhaps it becomes all too salient, through
the examples of our ancestors, that there are qualities
and levels of difference. Perhaps he thinks of who
has less, and who has more.
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