Letter 1

Erik, our younger daughter Jenny, and I just returned from our trip to
Guinea and Senegal. Our PCV, Elinor (Eli), appreciated it so much and
we were able to share the amazing experiences as well as the difficulties
of daily life. Just spending time with Eli was the best part. Also loved
learning about the various cultures, development issues in this part of
Africa, and day-to-day adventures.

We flew on Royal Air Maroc from DC (Delta codeshare) to NYC to
Casablanca then took Paramount Air Guinea Dakar to Labe. Price for Royal Air
Maroc was about $1166. Roundtrip Dakar-Labe was between $180 and $200.
Since Royal Air Maroc had a long layover on way to Dakar, we took an extra
day and went from Casablanca to Marrakech to get a chance to experience
Morocco. Although Marrakech involved some extra travel, friends
assured us that Casablanca was just another modern city, whereas Marrakech was
beautiful and had more historic and cultural sights. We stayed at a
lovely, small guesthouse, Riad Dar Pangal, in the Casbah and hired
licensed a day guide to take us through the old city and market. Next
day we hired a taxi to shuttle us around to the lovely gardens before
catching plane to Dakar. The sights and smells of Marrakech were so inviting:
Flowers everywhere. Buildings painted red - the color of the city.
Snake charmers, fortune tellers, story tellers in the plaza. Wonderful food.
Smell of aromatic spices filled the air.

We decided to skip Conakry, so flew from Dakar to Labe on the old
Soviet plane others have described (was glad the flight crew was Ukrainian and
looked like they had been flying these things for years - seats were
held together by duct tape, but take off and landing were smooth and no
luggage was lost). We called ahead to reserve a place on flight, but had to
go to their office and pay in cash to get a ticket. At the Labe house we
met lots of PCVs / I tried to write list of names of everyone we met
(all looked well and seemed to be doing fine and happy to have some R&R in
Labe) -- here's my best attempt to reconstuct the list, including some
COS (Close of Service) PCVs :Stephanie (actually met her in Dakar at the
central market - word had spread to Labe by the time we got there that
Elinor's parents were on their way), Leslie, Tina, Cheryl, Duncan,
Megan, Elise, Andreas, Derrick, Rachel, Jason, Chandra, Jeanette, Travis,
Chris, Amy & Nick, Jessamyn, Martha, Susanna, Dana, Jessie, Virginia, Kelli.
Also crossed paths and had dinner with Phil's parents (Maggie and
Scoot) who were also visiting - it felt like a small town.

We joined in at breakfast and pizza dinners with several of the PCVs
at the Hotel Tata a couple of blocks from PC house (they get vouchers to
stay there when they are in Labe for PC related reasons. We stayed in
a circular "case" (bungalow) with thatched roof that had two bedrooms
and private bathrooms and cost about $20 a nite -- PC rate is cheaper.
Lights and hot water were available from about 7:00 PM to 8:00 AM. Other
guests are mostly foreigners and NGO staff.) A couple pf PCVs joined us on
trip to the market and helped us bargain in Pular for cloth and
bracelets as we got into the rhythm of bargaining as a way of life. It was
fascinasting to hear how hard if was to get to Labe from some of their
villages - taxi only once or twice a week. Some found it easier to
bicycle in. Each of their experiences was so unique. Learned about
local health care programs, what trees and plants that grow well in the
region and just life in general. Was amazed at how many babies we saw
and how young many of the girls marry (7th or 8th grade). The Labe house
reminded me of group houses I lived in at back in the 60s and 70s in
college towns like Madison, Wisc and Berkely, Ca. They have a living
room, dining room, kitchen, sick room, indoor bathroom, outside
latrine, medical supplies area, mail box area with box for each PCV in Labe
region, garage for the PCV SUV, purified water, running water when it works,
electricity when it works, a PCV hired guard at the front gate, and a
lot of books, tapes, and generally friendly feeling. Duncan, 3rd year PC
staff is just wonderful, caring, competent and works so hard to keep
things on track. Will be sorry to see him leave next month to return
home.

We also got to see what the short wave check-ins were like. Regional
house staff keep track of who is supposed to be calling in and log the
calls. They are very serious about making sure that everyone's
whereabouts and well-being are monitored. We also experienced first
hand, how infrequently the electricity, water, and phones really work.
While were were there it seemed par for the course -- life just goes on --
very different than sitting at our phone in the US, dialing for a couple of
hours wondering why we can't get through.

We brought over some videos (DVD - no CD-ROM player available),
including "Spaceballs" and were welcomed with cheers. Chocolate seemed to be
another big hit, as were magazines ranging from the New Yorker to
Cosmo. Interestingly enough the mail run had just come in (early June) and the
package we had sent in early January had just arrived - post office
mice had eaten much of the dried fruit, but a a few items remained
unscathed. Anything you send that is a sweet treat will be greatly appreciated at
the house (e.g., Snickers, M&Ms and just about any kind of chocolate seemed
popular).

We spent about 4 days at Elinor's site, Lafou, on dirt the road from
Labe o Senegal. It was fascinating experiencing the various aspect of life
at site. Saw the differences between the "functionnaires (e.g.
teachers, doctors -- all of whom speak French and get government salaries) and
ordinary villagers (speak local language and were a little more
outgoing in welcoming us - gave us eggs / avacados / mangos / baskets.
Experienced the limited number of items, especially vegetables, that
could be bought at local market; sexual division of labor (girls and
women do most of the work); large number of seventh and eighth grade girls
getting married. Families with some money bought goats, sheep, cows -
all of which are considered a form of wealth. These animals roam freely,
eating the garbage that people throw in the street or yards. Non
organic trash is burned. Plastic bags, batteries, and the like remain on the
ground. Cars (even the old Renaults they use in Guinea) remain
supreme, meaning that walkers and bicyclists must yield the smoothest part of
the road to any oncoming cars. Cars to, however, yield to the large
numbers of cows, sheep, and goats on the roads (and everywhere else). Nothing
is wasted -- even plastic buckets are stiched together when they tear and
patchec when they develop holes. But everyone seemed well nourished.

We also visited Doucki, an ecorourism resort with a wonderful guide,
Hassan, who took us on hikes, including one to a rainforest type area
as well at the "Grand Canyon of Guinea". Wished we had stayed another day
to try the "shutes and ladders" 9 hour hike via vine bridges. If you
visit, Douki is a must. Went on to Dalaba, a colonial city in the Fouta. It
was high up and slightly cooler. Stayed at the Hotel Tangama, in two
rooms, each with double bed and bath. Were pleased that the lights
were brighter than at Hotel Tata. Visited a leather co-op, center that
provided training in basic education to girls as well as vocational
training to women, and the lovely tourist bureau, with guides available
for hikes to nearby waterfalls and old French governor's house.

We took Elinor with us for a week in Senegal. Since we stayed with
friends State Department friends who live in a nice part of town
outside of the city center in Dakar, we don't have specific hotel
recommendations. There are some hotels downtown and some near the airport in Ngor,
where there is a beach and it is much quiter. Taxis are plentiful and
relatively cheap if you have your PCV bargain (fascinating what skills
they have learned). Elinor was thrilled at the hot showers, washer and
dryer, and other amenities at our friends' house. Her favorite
downtown shops included a cafe that sold gelato and a store catering to the
French population that had multiple cheese selections. Quite a contrast to
foods available in her village. Even Yassa Poulet (Senegalese rice
with chicken and onions and spices) was a pleasant change from rice with
manioc leaf sauce. We visited the Goree Island, where slaves were shipped off
the America and downtown markets (found it a big contrast from Guinea
where we were able to wander around without being hassled - had trouble
shaking the Dakar guys who wanted to "help" us). Final treat, was a
trip to St. Louis - north on the coast, famed for it's jazz festival which
we had missed by a month. Stayed at the lovely Resid Hotel Diamarek
(Wolof for "peace"), in a cottage on the beach with 2 bedrooms, kitchen,
patio, and even an airconditioner. Took taxi to village center, shopped in
market for some Senegalese cloth, had a Vietnamese dinner, stopped by
the French Cultural Center, and just walked around. Spent the mornings
walking on the beach, then jumped into the lovely pool. Nearby Hotel
Mermoz had horses for hire for $10 an hour and trail was the beach.
Was wonderful R&R. We hired drivers and cars to get there and back to
Daka. Trip there was arranged through a local NGO and including a stop at the
famed Lac Rose. Trip back was arranged by hotel and cost much less.

Some travel tips follow:
-- Only drink purified water from the PC house and your PCV's house.
Bring a water purifier or tablets to use when traveling elsewhere. We
bought a Katyadyn purifier at REI. We ate only fruits that could be
peeled (washed them before peeling). We continually washed our hands
either with soap, Purel, or Wet Ones. Although we craved salads, we
passed anywhere we couldn't vouch that the vegetables had been soaked
in bleach. And we managed to avoid getting La Turista.

-- Plan on using cash, rather than credit cards or travellers checks in
Guinea. Let your PCV change the money into Guinean Francs. In Senegal
we were able to use our Bank Card (Cirrus/Plus network) to get cash from
ATM machines rather than waiting on long lines at bank to change money.

-- Rainy season had just started, so there weren't lots of mosquitos in
the Fouta -- nevertheless since mosquitoes love me over anyone else
within a mile, I used 100% DEET purchased at REI (appplied at dawn and dusk)
and remained relatively free of mosquito bites. Claritin and/or chewable
children's Benadryl worked well for the couple of days I had bites.

-- Have your PCV prepare a back-up plan for arrival. We planned on
arriving in Labe via Air Guinea (aka Paramount Air), and instructions
on what to do if Elinor wasn't there. Since she wasn't there, we began
negotiations with cab drivers (unsuccessfully). Lucikly she arrived,
late since she figured that no planes land on time. We also had a
contingency in case Air Guinea cancelled our flight or it was overbooked -- would
have flown to Conakry, stayed at the hotel near PC house and gotten bush
taxi to Labe.

-- Bring comfortable shoes (dirt road and paths have lots of rocks)
that you don't mind getting muddy or full of red dust. Same holds for
clothing.

-- Getting Guinean visa was painless and relatively quick, although
expensive ($100 in cash or money order). We sent an email to DC Peace
Corps office including dates of travel to get letter of invitation that
we sent along with Guinean visa application. No visa is required for
Senegal.

-- We used Malarone as anti-Malaria protection. After spending a lot
of time on CDC and other web sites, we decided it had the least side
effects, it was easier to remember to take a pill once a day than once a week,
and cost was covered by our health plan.

-- Lots of shots are needed (check CDC web site for complete list),
including Yellow Fever (only given at special travel clinics), current
tetanus, polio booster, meningitis, hepatitis A and B, t;yphoid, etc.
If they are not covered on your health plan, budget a few hundred dollars
per person.

-- If possible, when travelling from town to town, "deplacer" a taxi
(i.e., buy all the seats). Otherwise you'll be stuffed in (4 in the
back seat and to 4 4 in the front 2 bucket seats). Since travel is slow and
tiring, don't try to pack too many different sites into the trip. In
general, we broke up taxi trips so that none were more than 4 hours.

-- If you get a chance, visit Doucki -- the only ecotourism spot in the
area -- near Pita. Hassan speaks English, French, Pulaar, and other
African languages. His hobby is hiking. He built some "cases" (round
houses with thached roofs) and leads the best narrated hikes ever to
great canyons, rainforests, and waterfalls. It was physically challenging,
but Hassan sizes you up before selecting the hike. He provides good
food, tea, and wonderful hospitality in a breathtaking part of the Fouta.
Ask him to make the "green banana dish (one of the best dishes we had in
Guinea and a treat for vegetarians).

-- Be prepared to bargain, then let your PCV do the bargaining. We
mostly bought cloth in Labe and a couple of traditional bracelets. There are
several tailors nearby. It's best to bring a garment that you like the
style of and ask them to duplicate it with the cloth you buy. In
Senegal, we found a store that sold boutique bedspreads that are really lovely --
took our PCV an hour to get the price down.

-- Be prepared to have the women do all the work at your PCVs site.
Girls and women do all the things like carry water from well, wash clothes,
tend to growing things in plots close to house, gather firewood, cook, etc.
When I helped Elinor carry water in the bidon from the well, locals
chided us -- daughter shouldn't let mother carry the water -- usually it's a
job reserved for the younger sister. Men are generally not seen doing
washing, cooking, carrying water, etc.

-- May/June turned out to be a good time to visit. It was end of dry
season and beginning of rainy season in the Fouta. This meant that the
countryside was turning green, mango, avocado and banana were in full
bloom and delicious, the small rains kept the red dust in check but the
pot holes and mosquitoes had not yet taken over.

Best,
Carol Mermey
Parent of Elinor - G6 / July '03 math teacher)

Letter 2

My wife and I returned to Dakar on Sunday, January 11th after 28 hours
of traveling. We initially flew into Dakar and my son, Christopher met
us the airport. The Dakar airport is very modern for Africa. Once you
obtain your luggage, which is a real mess, you then enter the terminal
where you are accosted by numerable people offering to change money, be
a guide, get you a taxi, or carry your luggage. It is wise to just keep
your luggage to yourself and not use any of their services.
Fortunately, Christopher met us at the gate and had already arranged to have money
changed and obtain a taxi. Dakar is an excellent transition area to
Guinea. If it's your first time in the third world, it will be a good
start prior to going to Guinea. We stayed in a hotel called the Al Afifa.
It was clean and rates were reasonable, approximately $50 per night.
That also included some breakfast and it actually had a small pretty clean
swimming pool.

It was our plan to fly to Labe which was about three or four hours
from Christopher's site. Unfortunately, Guinea Express canceled the flight
to Labe. We then flew on January 30th to Conakry. Fortunately, our
papers were in order which included the Visa and allowed us to get through
customs. The picking up of your luggage is a madhouse. While picking up
the luggage, we were continuously accosted by men in uniform with guns
who wanted to assist us. One of them then showed us through customs and
demanded a healthy fee. Over Christopher's objections, I agreed. I find
that large people with guns are usually in the right.
We then took the taxi, which overcharged us to the hotel which is
about 200 yards from the Peace Corps headquarters. I cannot remember the
name, but it begins with an "M" and allegedly has three stars. It was not
very clean or very comfortable. Again, it was a good transition into
Guinea. However, the drive from the airport to the Peace Corps
headquarters, approximately ten miles, is somewhat horrifying. You see endless
poverty the entire way.

We took a bush taxi from Conakry to Chris's site which was
approximately nine hours away. This cost $70. Chris negotiated it with the help of
one of the guards at the Peace Corps headquarters. It was very
important to confirm that the taxi has all of his necessary papers and permits.
This is because you run into a number of road blocks with soldiers
along the way. If the papers are not properly done, it could result in all
kinds of problems.

We then spent the following six days in Chris's village. We were able
to watch him teach on one of the days. The first day or two is pretty
rough getting used to living without electricity or running water and
eating rice and sauce. After a few days, you get into the swing of the
village and things become much more comfortable. The people are wonderful
and treat you like a visiting dignitary. We constantly had people come
to greet us.

At the end of the six days, we went to Labe. We were fortunate to get
a ride with in a Peace Corps vehicle, although the road was incredibly
rough for the first two and a half hours. At Labe, we stayed at the
best hotel which is called, Tatas. I can only describe it as being about
four stars below a Motel 6. There is electricity, although it runs on
and off. There is running hot water.

From Labe, we flew Guinea Express back to Dakar and spent the last
three days there. The plane from Labe to Dakar was at best extremely
unsafe. It was an old Russian prop which shook and rattled most of the trip
and we were surprised it actually landed safely. Upon return to Dakar,
we stayed at the Sofitel Hotel which I believe is also called Turanga.
This is off the Plaza Independencia. Because we got the Peace Corps
rate, we paid half of the normal rate which made it about the same price
as the Al Afifa. The hotel was extremely clean and well run. One
suggestion is don't eat breakfast there as there is an overcharge for the
breakfast, approximately $20 each, but everything else was very reasonable
and generally well done. The pool was excellent and right adjacent to
the beach. There were also some excellent restaurants within a quarter
mile of the hotel along the beachfront.