Rough Guide to West Africa |
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Lonely Planet Guide to West
Africa |
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Airlines
flying into Guinea
- Cheapest:
Air Afrique from NY to Dakar, Senegal,
connecting to Conakry. This is connected
to Air France.
- Second
cheapest: Royal Air Maroc through
Casablanca. For free you can extend your
layover into a week in this lovely country.
- Most
comfy: Air France, Paris
to Conakry
- Safest:
Sabena, Brussels to Conakry.
This is a Belgian airline.
- Most
adventuresome: Aeroflot.
I think they're Russian? They can
be...unpredictable.
- SN Brussels Airlines is now serving Guinea from Europe and Cassablanca.
Air
Afrique
- One traveller
says: "I traveled to Guinea last
July on Air Afrique from Paris to Conakry.
Although the plane seemed safe, it was
a very uncomforatable eight-hour flight.
The food on the plane was inedible, most
of the seats were broken (some would not
recline, others were wobbly), and the
flight attendants were extremely unhelpful.
If I were to plan another trip, I would
fly on either Air France (from Paris)
or Sabena (from Brussels). The tickets
may cost a bit more, but it's well worth
it to avoid flying on Air Afrique.
Air Afrique is probably not worth the
lower price (if it is lower). I've heard
too many stories of 3-day delays and completely
disappeared luggage."
- A PCV
relates: "Yes, Air Afrique is pretty
safe. It may not be aesthetically pleasing
and there are others that are more comfortable
but it's safe. They do a pretty lucrative
business on the Dakar-New York and West
Africa-to-Paris flights so they have a
stake in makin sure safety is good."
- And another:
" Also, I've
found that Air Afrique is unreliable and
lack hugely in the customer service
department, but that's why they are so
cheap. "
Royal
Air Maroc -- "New York to Casablanca,
Morocco to Guinea. You may have
to spend a night in Morocco, but if
that's the case, they'll pay for the hotel.
I just flew RAM from Guinea to NYC for $1052
US. that was a one way, but I believe
their round trips are also very reasonable.
The airline is professional and friendly.
"
Air
France: "We flew Air France
and it was wonderful. Actually, we
went from O'Hare to Paris and stayed three
days. Then flew from Paris to Conakry,
stayed nine days, then back to Paris and
on to Lisbon for five days, back to Paris
and home. The three loops on Air France
were very efficient and the service was
excellent."
Recent airfares July
2000: $1000-$1200.
Senegal:
$800. Some travelers choose to fly via Senegal
to ease into the culture, and airfares to
Senegal are cheaper. Roundtrip Dakar-Labe
was between $180 and $200 in 2004.
In case
you're wondering why the airfares to Guinea
are so high, there was an article in the
Guinean weekly L'Ind�pendant which talked
about the subject. The piece spoke of
all the different expenses and taxes required
by the airport, govt etc. and estimated
that on an average flight, the airline
has to spend at total of at least 20 million
GF (just under US$15,000). That's before
staff costs and of course profits. This
makes the Conakry airport, according to
L'Ind�pendant, "the most expensive airport
in the world"
Purchasing
tickets
It is
often cheaper to buy two sets of tickets,
one between the US and Europe (either
Paris or Brussels) and one between Europe
and Conakry. I'm not sure why it works
that way, but that's what I've found every
time .
You might
also try Spector
Travel of Boston. They specialize
in African travel. Their e-mail
address is [email protected]. Web
site, http://www.spectortravel.com and
their phone # is 617-338-0111.
Buying
tickets in the US for someone traveling
out of Guinea
You may
want to buy tickets here and ask a traveler
to hand-carry the tickets for you. You
can find out Who's
Going to Guinea.
You can
buy air tickets in Conakry. There
is a travel agent that Peace Corps uses
that is quite good. Prices can be
quite reasonable or even cheap, but it
just depends on what deals might be around
at the time. Plan plenty in advance,
have the volunteer check out ticket prices
around Conakry.
If the
prices on tickets purchased in Guinea
are not good, you may want to purchase
their ticket in the U.S. and send it to
them via a visitor to Guinea (find them
on the Guinea list). Another factor
is that most places in Guinea (correct
me if it's changed) do not accept credit
cards. So, the PCV must have enough
traveler's cheques or cash to cover their
ticket.
One PCV
says: "I found that the best
way to get Air Afrique tickets was through
a U.S. travel agent even when I
was in Guinea. The only problem
is that they might not have the
flight numbers. You could have your
friend get the flight numbers you
want from a Guinean travel agent and then
have your U.S. travel agent book
them. "
One parent
said, in July 2001, "We just brought
our son home for a summer break and found
it was much cheaper to get round-trip
tickets from Bamako, Mali to Memphis than
from Conakry (we saved about $1000). What
was neat, it turned out the AirFrance
flight he was catching in Bamako actually
originated in Conakry and for less than
$200 he was able to buy tickets in Conakry
and fly straight through."
One parent
said: We were advised by our local travel
agent to purchase the ticket through air
france and pay an extra $100 US to hold
it at the air france office in Conakry.
we bought the ticket a couple of months
ago and it came to $1,950 round trip.
(2002)
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Download the Visa Application Form
by clicking here. This is
a PDF file, viewable in Adobe
Acrobat.
Contact the Guinean
Embassy in Washington for current requirements.
As of September 2005,
here are the visa requirements.
- $100.00 for
the visa fee (money order or cash)
- Two completed
visa applications (click
here for .pdf of visa application)
- Passport valid
for at least 6 months from the end of your visit
with at least two blank pages
- Two Passport
photos
- International
Vaccanation Card showing vaccanation for Yellow
Fever
- Cover Letter
stating the purpose of your travel
- You should
also include a cover letter from the Peace Corps
available by e-mailing Paul Johnson at the AF
Region Desk of the Peace Corps in Washington
DC ([email protected])
- A self addressed
stamped envelope to return your passport (you
may also use a Fed Ex envelope for speedy return)
- For a Guinean
Visa you need to have 6 months
left on your passport after you leave the country.
So check your passport expiration date.
Embassy
of the Republic of Guinea
2112 Leroy Street NW
Washington, DC 20008
(202) 986-4300 |
Past Experiences:
October 2003: One parent says: "Travel
tip I was unaware of: when applying for a passport,
you need the "long" form of your birth certificate.
Evidentally, certificates that say "abstract"
on them or have a baby footprint on them are not acceptable.
"Must have the seal" I was told by our post
office where we'll go to get our passports."
Another says:
"We got applications for the visa from the Guinean
Embassy in Washington. Basically, you need the form,
a letter of invitation, a copy of your immunizations,
two passport pictures, $45 in the form of a cashier's
check or money order, and your passport. Have
to mail all this and we included a
pre-paid priority mail envelope
for the return. Our daughter mailed the letter
of invitation but it didn't arrive promptly and we
ended up calling Washington and getting one faxed
from Kathy Tilford. Now, they are not as efficient
as we like to think we are so all the pieces not in
our control took a while. But it all worked
out. The visas are good for 60 days. At
least that's how our are dated." June 2000.
In July, 2000 a brief
survey of travellers indicated that: The consensus
seems to be that it is all right for the visa applicant
simply to write a letter explaining that he or she
is a tourist.", and send this to the Guinean embassy
along with a visa application.
In July 2001, a frequent traveller
said: There is no need to pay an expediter fee for
Guinea. Send a self-
addressed, stamped legal-sized envelope to: Ambassade
de Republique de Guinee 2112 Leroy Place North West
Washington, DC 20008 requesting a visa application
form. You need to submit this in triplcate with original
signatures, with passport sized photo on each and
$45 (if you're American citizen) money order (NO checks)
with your passport & yellow fever proof of vaccination,
a letter stating your reason for visiting, and stamped
return envelope. The instructions will tell you to
send a letter of invitation from someone in Guinea,
but this is not necessary. It usually takes them less
than a week to process. Their telephone number is
202-483-9420. Guinea is a financially poor country;
it is unlikely the embassy is going to return a FAX.
Leave plenty of time, send the application
and passport(s) registered mail. If you have someone
in the DC area who can either drop off or pick up,even
better.
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The CDC
Health Information for West Africa is the gold
standard for vaccinations you may want, as well as
other health considerations.
The only required vaccination (as
of 12/2004) is Yellow Fever -- you need your WHO card
indicating that you have been vaccinated against Yellow
Fever in order to enter the country.
You will need to
take anti-malarial medicine while you are there, and
for 2 weeks prior (at least).
It is also good to get checked out for any bugs you
might have picked up once you return.
One traveller says:
"As far as immunizations, we got yellow fever (required),
Hepatitis A, and my daughter and I needed tetnus and
a polio booster. We took Lariam for malaria
preventative, one week before we went, while we were
there and for four weeks afterwards. My husband
and I had varying side effects from that drug.
I really didn't sleep well until I was finished with
it and he had some degree of anxiety attacks and shortness
of breath. We found out, after the fact, that
these are some of the known side effects."
Another writes: "I went to Ohio State travel health clinic and they recommended the following: hep A meningococcal, polio
buster, tetanus buster, yellow fever, prescription
from malarone and I took the live oral vivotif typhoid
tablets. They told me not to worry about hep B."
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Things
to bring to villagers |
It is nice to bring
small gifts to the villagers where you volunteers
is stationed. It is not expected, but many people
have done it. Ask your volunteer's advice in the matter
-- he/she may not want visitors to come bearing many
gifts, as it would place such an expectation upon
him/her. However, it is also a respectful gesture,
especially to those who are close friends of your
volunteer. Gifts are always received with gratitude.
It is especially fun to give gifts to the children,
who don't get many things in general.
You may want to be
modest in the cost of your gifts. A $20 gift is
often more than a month's salary, and it can be inappropriate to
come bearing expensive items. If a more expensive gift is to be given, it should be something gifted to the entire village, for everyone's benefit. Feel free to ask for suggestions if you want to make such a gift to a village.
- BASEBALL CAPS
are very popular, and will make you many friends.
Thrift shops
have new caps for very cheap, often.
- JASMINE TEA has been
a big hit among young men. They mixed it with their usual green tea
and loved it.
- Kids love matchbox
cars
- Jewelry, like
necklaces, are nice for special friends.
- Calendars and
pens
- Markers and crayons
for kids
- T-shirts (especially
new ones) are popular. Soccer shirts are a BIG
plus. You can often find barely used kids' soccer
shirts at the thrift store.
- Nice baby clothes
from the secondhand store (someone's always had
a baby).
- Kids' clothes,
thrift store OK. Girls especially get few new
clothes.
- A nice looking
(but inexpensive, like $5-$10) watch is a nice
gift. Thrift store again!
- For someone very
special a $30 camera would be a treasured gift,
or a nice watch or clock.
- If they're an
official, they sometimes like things for their
desks, like
a fancy looking desk set or desk clock or nice
pen.
- They're really
into photos, and a small photo album (especially
with some photos of you and/or the volunteer)
would be a hit. Framed photos of host family (and
PCV) are also great.
- Books in French
- Brightly colored
silk scarves
- Small change
purses and key chains
- Nice handkerchiefs
for men and American bandanas
These
tips are direct quotes from various people
(mostly parents of PCVs) who have been to
Guinea. Not every tip will be helpful to
every traveler!
Ghosts
of French Bwanas -- Yahoo! travel article
about Guinea. |
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What
to pack? - Money?
- Health Tips - Food
- When to Go -Arriving
at Conakry airport - Taking
photos - General Comments
What
to pack?
You should definitely
get the one and only available map
of Guinea. We don't make any money on this purchase
-- I'm only promoting it because it's useful!
One parent writes: We took soft
sided suitcases, but when I go again, I'll take
a
backpack. There are very few roads to wheel suitcases
on and then you just have to carry them. We found
backpacks better. Good clothes for Dakar/Paris were
in a suitcase we left at the Labe house to pickup
on our return from the village of Sannou. The less
you pack, the better you'll feel ,because you have
to lug it everywhere and taxis charge for each bag
on board as well as for the passengers.
Another says: Suitcase limits are
50 pounds now either way. We were "almost"
charged $600 extra by Air France because we had
checked the limit in bags plus we each had two carry
ons. Put you purse inside of the carry on and keep
the carry on small as possible (40 lb. limit). And,
you are only allowed one.
Bring a day pack.
Take a good camera,
comfortable pants and loose shirts (it is humid/hot
even in the rain).
For shoes: Tevas
work well. If you plan on hiking, running shoes
are better than hiking boots
cause they are lighter. Bring comfortable shoes
(dirt road and paths have lots of rocks)
that you don't mind getting muddy or full of red
dust. Same holds for clothing.
You don't need to
worry about taking all the right clothes, as you
can get cheap used clothes in the local market.
We brought a polaroid camera and
this was an incredible hit with the locals, don't
show the polaroid until you're getting close to
leaving or you will be constantly asked for pictures.
We left the camera at Labe house, so if anyone wants
to use it, they are welcome to do so. You will need
to bring film.
We brought book lights for ourselves
and left one for our volunteer. It gets hard reading
with a candle at night. Headlamps are also useful
for the same reason. Many prefer the ones with LEDs.
Collared shirts are important because
the people expect you to be dressed up at some level.
I also brought a large hat which helps with the
sun.
I suggest bringing an old wallet
with an expired credit card and a minimal amount
of cash. This way, if you get confronted and have
to give up a wallet, you can give that up without
experiencing any loss.
We bought a chocolate mousse mix
from REI. All you did was add water and had a dessert.
This was a God send in the village. I would recommend
bringing this or similar items to enliven the meals
at the village. I would also bring small cans of
tuna fish which you will also appreciate if you
are in the village.
Money?
One parent writes:
We took cash only, on a tip from another parent
and they were right. We used the money belts and
changed money at the hotel in Conakry and in the
bank in Labe. There is a Western Union there in
Labe as well. No Traveler's Checks and the one time
I tried to use my credit card in Conakry, it didn't
work because of the electricity going out.
One traveler writes: We did use
Master Card to pay for hotel rooms at the the Riviera
in Conakry but this was a mistake. The hotel will
gladly take your card but before they process the
transaction (by hand - not electronically) they
manually convert the bill to Euros and and then
send it through who knows where to actually get
the processing done. We felt it cost about 30% extra
to use plastic.
One parent writes:
You won't want to bring travellers cheques, bring
cash, just stash it all over your body! You'll
be amazed at how creative you can be! Credit cards
only work in Conakry and only in the expensive places.
Another says: We found that $1,000.00
per person was more than adequate for our two week
stay. We took U.S. $100.00 bills. We had this changed
into Guinea Francs by our daughter who went to currency
changers on the
downtown streets of Labe and Conakry (leaving us
behind because she could get a better rate if there
wasn't a group of "tourists" hanging around
while she negotiated.) Exchange rates are negotiable
with these
folks and you get much better than the going bank
rate.
And another says: For money, take
US cash or EUROs. These can be exchanged at the
banks or on the black market in Guinea. You are
right, traveller's cheques are useless. Since you
are coming through Mali, probably Bamako, which
I did also, I found the Hotel Le Compegnard (sp?)
would take VISA and US traveller's cheques. It is
also has an association with Hotel LeRefuge which
operates through Hotel Le Compegnard. One Bank (sorry
I don't remember the name) had an ATM in Bamako
where I used my VISA card to get CFA's. Use this
information as you like. They are both located not
far the the Bamako Peace Corps House. I'm sure you
will do as I did and give any "leftover"
CFA's and Guinean francs to your PCV. They can use
them, but once you leave Africa, they are useless
to you. No bank in the US will exchange the money
for you.You will change 5 CFA's (Mali money) for
Guinean francs at the border. At least they did
for us. CFA's can also be exchanged at banks and
on the black market in Guinea.
I also took about
$1,000.00 with me because I wasn't sure how much
I needed. I left $700.00 behind with my son.
If you stay at the hotels, of course it will cost
you more. The Hotel Camayenne runs about $125.00
per night (in NOV 99), it is where all the
diplomats stay while they are in Conakry.
It's a touch of home away from home. I would
say that there are no hotels at your friend's site.
I would attempt to save $3,000.00 for my airfare
and $500.00 for spending.
"I believe that
my mom spent about $500 excluding airfare for an
8-day trip. She stayed in my village, Tougue,
for a few days, so our only major expenses
were souvenirs and hotels in Conakry and Dalaba.
"
Before leaving, call your credit
card companies and tell them where you're going
to be. Otherwise, you may find that your card will
be refused in either Guinea or Senegal.
Health
tips
I had prescription medication along and never was questioned or challenged. I carried it in the prescription bottles in which they were dispensed. I also had a letter from my physician concerning my need for them. No one ever asked to see the letter. Over the counter medication should be in its original containers. Don't put things in other unlabeled bottles, or mix things up.
Throughout the trip, we took low grade antibiotics which I think helped greatly in fending off disease. We also brought prescribed Lomotil which also helped a lot when sickness came on. |
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Trim your nails; long nails are
a source of infection.
We continuously used anti-bacterial
solutions for our hands. I think this helped us
avoid illness. You are constantly shaking hands
with people which is a source of potential infection
We used Malarone as anti-Malaria
protection. After spending a lot of time on CDC
and other web sites, we decided it had the least
side effects, it was easier to remember to take
a pill once a day than once a week, and cost was
covered by our health plan.
Food?
Take lots of food
with you (light-weight packages), but don't take
much luggage. We wore, pretty much the
same clothes the entire time we were there.
One becomes much like the PCV natives, quickly.
Remember, what you put on that luggage check-in
counter you'll be carrying with you the entire time
in Guinea! I would suggest taking clothing
that you can toss out or leave in your PCVs village.
This way you can return with a case full of fabric,
momentos, stuff your PCV has purchased and will
want you to take home with you, and the enormous
amount of mail PCVs need sent home.
"Drink only Coyah
(bottled water), take a camel back of water, and
take some food (snacks) every where you go, you
never know when you will get stuck someplace."
"As far as
water in Guinea goes, there are plenty of places
to buy bottled water, just watch the seal. Be sure
it is solidly sealed. Don't do as the PCVs
do and buy water and funny little juice baggies
from children and women on the streets. The veteran
PCV stomach is made of iron and has lots of little
things in it to eat up the bad stuff in the liquid
(shudder)!
When
to go
"Rainy season
(our summer) is good except the roads might
be in worse condition. Still, if you've got
more than just a couple weeks to spend there, it
shouldn't pose too much of a problem." In
June (early rainy season) road will not be in as
bad condition as in August, when they might be more
washed out. April is the hottest and driest
time of year.
May/June turned
out to be a good time to visit. It was end of dry
season and beginning of rainy season in the Fouta.
This meant that the
countryside was turning green, mango, avocado and
banana were in full
bloom and delicious, the small rains kept the red
dust in check but the
pot holes and mosquitoes had not yet taken over.
If your PCV is a
teacher, they will be off school from June - August.
What
will happen when I arrive at the Conakry airport?
The Guinean airport
is one of the worst in the world. It can
be a bit overwhelming. You will first
go to a checkpoint to show your passport, visa,
and WHO card. Woe to the traveller without
the right documents!
Then you go to the
section to claim your baggage. People will
try to get you to let them take your bags.
They're not stealing
them (usually), but want to get paid to wheel
the cart for you. If you have a lot of bags,
you might want
to accept this. I wouldn't pay more than
$1-$2 for this. PLEASE don't pay more, or
you make
it more difficult for all the other travellers.
They'll take advantage of your naivete.
You can
also wheel a cart yourself, you don't have
to pay them. On your way out, you pass by
a desk with grumpy
looking people in uniforms. This is customs.
Be sure you know what you
have and if it should require customs charges.
They will often ask for some
money ($5 should do it), and just let you through.
That's often easiest. Otherwise,
they might go through your bags and ask for stuff...
This
is worst case scenario.
I usually just said "peace corps", waved an ID,
brought my bag on
the table in a gesture of cooperation, and they
waved me on. Smile, and look dumb.
Hotels
in Dakar
Continental and
Provencal both around $28. Continental
atmosphere and friendly staff was slightly better
at Continental, but many PCVs go to Provencal.
Hotel Independence is
better than both, right downtown, beautiful rooms,
pool on roof.
Soifel Teranga Hotel was
expensive but accomodations were fantastic, even
had hair dryers in the rooms. THere are only rooms
with one bed. The rooms were around $100 or more
and then in Dakar they gave us a Peace Corps discount
bringing it to $90. Olympic size pool along hte
beach, wonderful but expensive restaurant overlooking
restaurant, friendly and helpful staff.
Sofitel is supposed
to be clean and basic.
Taking
photos
I understood that
you have to be careful when use a camera, people
do not like to be in front of camera. I
saw you took a lot of pictures, please comment.
I took a lot of
pictures because I lived in a village, knew the
people,
and could as them in
their own language if it was ok. Each was
a
difficult negotiation.
Often, people will let you take their picture if
you
promise to give them a copy.
That's not a bad deal, if you have the money,
and can remember where you
saw them. Be respectful. Ask first.
Learn how to
say "Can I take your picture"
in the local language, and they'll love you
and take you in. Actually,
if you learn any local language at all,
they'll give you anything
you want. It's the key to friendship.
I'm talking about
merchants and local
people, not the educated people at the factory.
General
Comments
If you'd like some nice travelogues,
here are some descriptions
people have written of their trips to Guinea.
One traveller says:
"In retrospect, nothing was that bad and all the
advice from this newsletter was very good.
Everyone has their own spin on what was helpful.
Most women said don't take too many clothes, but
I wish I had stuffed more t-shirts in, at least
to feel fresher. It's hard to achieve that
without running water! I think Purell was
invented for Guinea. The little village was
far more tolerable, despite the lack of amenities.
Everyone was so nice. "
Have your PCV prepare a back-up
plan for arrival in case they're not there to meet
you at the airport.
On the cultural issues theme - just
remember to clear your throat if you hear someone
approaching the latrine while you are using it and
to stay away if you hear someone clearing theirs
as you approach.
Don't try to see too many
places - pick a few and stay there. Traveling
takes a long time and can be exhausting.
Please offer
to carry letters or small packages. Hand-couriers
are invaluable means of communication between parents
and PCV's. Send your travel
dates to saabrian @ yahoo.com for inclusion
on the list. Here is the online list of people
travelling to Guinea.
With respect to bathrooms,
I suggest you all start practicing squatting as
low as you can to the ground. Remember, lower is
better. The real natives can squat with their feet
flat on the ground. Good luck.
As far as traditions
or customs - one thing they do constantly
in a very friendly manner is greet you over and
over again. It is rude to pass someone without
greeting and shaking their hands. You
may also expected to bring small gifts and your
friend can tell you what to bring.
Make sure any taxi
you get into has working doors and a complete exhaust
pipe and that the windows go up. If you encounter
a roadblock, do not give up your passport.
We were only hit up once
for a bribe - that was at the airport just
after we arrived and we were trying to get out of
the building with copious amounts of luggage - duffel
bags of "stuff" that we had brought over
for our daughter and other volunteers. One of the
"security guards" began to do a "search"
of the bags for contraband, but before
she got too far another one who appeared to be a
supervisor came over and asked us why we were coming
to the country. Our daughter explained she was with
the Peace Corps and those were the magic words.
The supervisor reprimanded the first person and
let us go. Our daughter was very strict with us
- not allowing us to pay a bribe or give up easily
when we were dickering for an item we wanted to
purchase because she felt it would set a bad precedent
for those who would follow.
If you get a chance, visit
Doucki -- the only ecotourism spot in the
area -- near Pita. Hassan speaks English, French,
Pulaar, and other
African languages. His hobby is hiking. He built
some "cases" (round
houses with thached roofs) and leads the best narrated
hikes ever to
great canyons, rainforests, and waterfalls. It was
physically challenging,
but Hassan sizes you up before selecting the hike.
He provides good
food, tea, and wonderful hospitality in a breathtaking
part of the Fouta.
Ask him to make the "green banana dish (one
of the best dishes we had in
Guinea and a treat for vegetarians).
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